A Small Farm Journey to Kintamani

For the nine years we ran Kopi Coffee House in Portland, our naturally processed coffee from the Kintamani highlands of Bali was consistently our best-selling coffee. Both as retail bags and as pour-overs as fresh pour-overs, the natural Bali consistently blew people's minds.

Nestled in the highlands of Bali, Kintamani is renowned for its breathtaking volcanic landscapes. In the shadow of Mt. Batur, you can find hot springs, fruit farms, and extraordinary coffee.

The unique volcanic soil and climate conditions create an ideal environment for cultivating high-quality coffee. Small farm coffee co-ops operate together as well as independently, many use a hybrid method of biodynamic farming where fruit trees like oranges and tangerine mangroves provide the needed shade for the coffee plants. This imbues the coffee with that famous flavor.

Fourteen Years Ago

My first time in Kintamani was on a hiking trip in 2010. On my hike up the majestic Gunung Batur I watched the early morning fog dissipate on our way up the south ridge of the volcano. We had set off in the darkness, guided by the glow of our headlamps. Upon reaching the top, we were greeted with a breathtaking panorama as the sun slowly ascended, illuminating a multi-layered misty expanse. This was coupled with a traditional breakfast of eggs and coffee served like no other. Our guide prepared the eggs by steaming them in hot crevices of volcanic activity. The views, the eggs, and a hot cup of local Balinese coffee was a sensory experience I will never forget.

When we started the shop five years later, we knew that importing coffee from Kintamani, no matter how difficult - would be the talk of the neighborhood.

Our Soaking Pool within the Kintamani Caldera

Arriving in the Shadow of Batur

I was more than excited to get to our boutique home-stay, mainly so we can soak our achy muscles in the geothermal hot springs of Kintamani. For a traveler teetering on the edge of adventure and wellness, Bali is a place where these contrasting yet complementary pursuits converge. Kintamani has some of the island's best hot springs and even though we are here for coffee, we stay near the ancient thermal waters that offer respite after a day of farm touring or volcano hiking. Here, in the shadow of an active volcano, several boutique hotels offer small soaking pools of sulfuric water.

Venturing into foggy Kintamani feels like a retreat into a quieter, more rooted Bali. Away from the slammed traffic of the southern beaches, the landscape transforms into undulating hills and serene, sun-kissed calderas. Near the base of the Batur volcano, one can expect to find a string of small villages, each with its own unique brand of piping-hot pools, effervescent with minerals drawn from deep within the Earth. We were happy to soak at every opportunity as we waited for our farm tour with Ida and his daughter Cindy.

Touring the Roastery

The next morning we were welcomed by Ida Bagus Made Santos and his daughter, Cindy - a dynamic duo embodying the spirit of small farm coffee in Bali. Ida, an expert smallholder farmer, has dedicated his life to cultivating coffee and preserving traditional growing methods that respect the land. His deep knowledge of the unique volcanic soil and sustainable practices shines through in the coffee they produce.

First, we were off to their roastery and packaging facility. It was hard not to be charmed by the warmth and enthusiasm we received from Ida's daughter, Cindy, who was here to help translate and explain the daily operations of the farm and roastery. The roaster itself is a behemoth, an orange monster that can handle 60 kilos at a time. Ida ran us through a couple of roasts and I couldn't help but be intimidated, even as an experienced roaster.

After the roaster, Ida took us to the packing area where a room full of workers eagerly welcomed us with warm smiles and fresh cups of coffee. It was a lively scene, with everyone buzzing about their tasks, but they took a second to share a moment with us. The aroma from the roast wafted down through the whole building, and as we sipped the rich brew, they explained the process that goes into preparing each bag for sale. It was clear that every member of the team played a vital role in ensuring that the quality of the coffee matched the high standards set by Ida's farming practices.

The Farm Experience Amidst the Storm

After our visit to the roastery, we headed to the farm about a 45-minute drive away. As we wound our way around treacherous veins of tiny roads, thick clouds rolled in, darkening the skies above us. The rain began tapping on the windshield and developed into hard drumming. The roads were so small, looking out the window, could see directly down the cliffs. I had vertigo.

As we ascended, the roads narrowed further, winding through lush greenery and the occasional burst of wildflowers. Just as the rain began to feel too intense, something magical occurred— we found ourselves driving above the clouds. The sun broke through the gloomy layer, casting a golden light across the landscape, and there, before us, were the farms. This breathtaking moment calmed my nerves and provided a warm embrace from nature welcoming us to the farm.

When we finally arrived at the farm, the landscape transformed into a tapestry of mang shades of green, kissed with droplets of rain. The rich aroma of wet orange mangroves mingled with the fragrance of coffee blossoms. As we splashed through puddles and let the cool rain refresh us, Ida and Cindy shared tales of how the changing weather patterns influence the growth and flavor profiles of their coffee. The storm heightened our appreciation for the environment that nurtures these crops, reminding us of the connection between nature and our daily cup of coffee.

the Freshest Cup of Bali Blue

With the rains eased, we set out to explore the coffee farm in earnest. Our walk kicked off with a stroll through the lush fields of short coffee plants and tall orange trees. Ida and Cindy guided us, explaining the meticulous care that goes into each stage of the coffee-growing process—from planting to harvesting. We learned about the unique varietals that thrive in the volcanic soil, and how each bean is handpicked at its peak ripeness to ensure maximum flavor.

After touring the fields through the mangroves, we made our way to the processing area, where we witnessed the latest crop sun-drying in greenhouse beds. The air in the greenhouse was dense with a variety of earthy smells that only naturally processed coffee provides.

Finally, we huddled around the tasting table, Ida disappeared for was while. We pet the dogs and watched them chase the chickens and talked to Cindy about her future plans. When Ida came back, in typical Indonesian fashion, his arms were overflowing with food. Following behind him was an employee holding a tray of freshly brewed coffee. This was our Bali Blue in its freshest, purest form and it did not disappoint. Wow.

I've been drinking this exact coffee for years, but having it this fresh, before it journeys the thousands of miles across the Pacific to our shores, was a totally new experience. Tasting the Bali Blue straight from the source allowed us to find new tasting notes like spiced chocolate, strawberry ice cream, and bergamot. This coffee was no longer a drink; it was a sensory representation of the land below our feet and the herculean effort it takes to cultivate it. It was, in a word, awesome.

Soaking the day in

As our day at the coffee farm came to a close, my legs were aching and I now gained a physical reminder of how much labor it takes for this crop to make to our cups at home. From navigating the winding roads amidst a storm to massaging the drying beans in between my fingers, the intensity of the environment was unmistakable. It had left an impression on me as I soaked my pain away in the thermal hot springs at sundown.

I thought long and hard about how grueling this business is. From crop to cup, the coffee industry has no easy gigs. It is a massive undertaking even for a small business like Pagi to patronize small farmers like Ida.

Bali Blue is a richly layered coffee not only in terms of flavor but also in narrative. Our time with Ida and Cindy was a reminder of the love, dedication, and how much intense work goes into each pour. I recommend giving it some thought while enjoying your next cup of coffee. Thank you - terimakasih - X

We Visit the Small Farm where Bali Blue Comes From!